I wrote hopefully at the end of my last blog entry that I would post again soon. However, a few things got in the way (namely the completion of the aforementioned Masters, planning an international holiday and falling pregnant unexpectedly). Its now November and the baby is about 15 weeks away from entering the world – but at least I have a lot to write about.
My husband Chris and I have been speaking about an epic European adventure ever since we got married almost 6 years ago. I developed an uncanny knack for spending my time and money doing other things – so thus it was only now we finally got around to it (which turned out to be extremely good timing, given that we booked our tickets before we knew anything about the baby). Our itinerary, a subject of great debate, was finally whittled down to 5 weeks, 5 countries and 13 locations within them. We were to spend the greatest amount of time in Italy (2 weeks) including 1 week with one of our closest friends, Julie.
By the time the holiday came around, I was feeling apprehensive. I’d never travelled pregnant before, and I was worried that if something went wrong I would have no idea what to do. I had an ultrasound the morning we left, which was all clear and provided some comfort – but when we arrived in Rome after 20 hours of travel, I was feeling overwhelmed. So when the owner of our hostel asked if we would like to join him for breakfast, I gratefully accepted.
He took us to a breakfast bar. On one side of the room was a glass display cabinet full of pastries, where we picked up a croissant each. We then crossed to the long marble bar at the other side of the room, where people were crowded around drinking small cups of coffee – standing up. Our cappuncinos arrived within a minute. As soon as I took a sip and a bite, I was in heaven – the coffee was full of flavour and at a perfect temperature, and the croissant had a lovely sugar glaze and was freshly-baked soft. My apprehension disappeared at that moment and I didn’t look back – it still rates as one of my favourite experiences of the entire trip, and every morning we were in Italy we tried to replicate it.

View from our hotel room in Rome
Julie arrived in the afternoon, and we took off for the Spanish Steps, the Trevi Fountain and the Pantheon. The first two dated from the 17th century while the Pantheon is one of the best preserved ancient buildings, dating from 27BC. However I wasn’t prepared for the number of tourists at each location – there was hardly room to move and I was constantly ducking and weaving out of the way of peoples cameras. I was also surprised by the warm weather, which was similar to that we had left behind in Sydney. We rapidly ran out of energy due to jet lag and I fell asleep fully clothed on my bed at 8.30.

Jules and I on the Spanish Steps
The jet lag meant we started early the next morning as well. We ended up at the Colosseum as it opened at 9, and were convinced into joining a guided tour, which was much better than expected. We learnt that the marble that formerly covered the Colosseum had been ‘recycled’ by the Vatican (e.g. stolen), and the holes throughout the wall had previously held metal pins to stabilise the Colosseum against earthquakes until they were stolen by budding entrepeneurs, which resulted in the arena’s partial collapse in years to come. My interest in history had previously been reserved for modern history, so I was surprised to find the Colosseum so fascinating – perhaps because it’s a struggle to understand the societies that have come before ours. The Roman Forum next door – the alleged birthplace of Rome and the political centre of the Roman Empire – was harder to picture as it was thousands of years ago, possibly because the ruins were in worse shape.

Overlooking the Colosseum
The surprise for the day was an exhibition of Leonardo da Vinci’s inventions, built as they were described in his diaries. They ranged from flying devices, to a massive crossbow, to a tank which looked more like a UFO. Now there was someone with an imagination!
The next day we tackled the Vatican. This was our first experience of enormous lines, which became a running joke throughout the holiday as I pestered Chris to allow me to stand in any line I saw because they were so enjoyable (hmmm…) We hired an audioguide for St Peters Basilica, trying to replicate our experience from the day before – a very bad decision. The audioguide went for more than 2 hours, describing everything in excruciating detail and trying to convert the listener to Catholicism along the way. It completely detracted from any enjoyment I had of the Basilica, which otherwise was quite a spectacular building.
After lunch, we started to make our way to the Vatican Museum to see the Sistine Chapel. Along the way, we discovered that the entrance was going to close in ten minutes and we were still a considerable distance away. We walked as quickly as I could waddle – and were the last people admitted when we arrived just on closing time. That easily made up for the disappointment of the Basilica! The Sistine Chapel was amazing – although quite difficult on your neck. I was also at a loss to understand why we had to be quiet – sure, flashes can ruin the artwork, but does sound??? How holy are these pictures?? The Raphael Rooms on the way to the Chapel were equally stunning.

Having a rest in St Peters Square
After being on our feet almost constantly for two days, I was pretty exhausted, and was relieved that we took an easier option the next morning to see the Catacombs and the Appin Way (the original road into Rome). The Catacombs were thankfully not full of skulls like the one I saw in Paris several years earlier, but had plenty of interesting stories.
In the afternoon, we caught the train to Florence and except for more tedious standing in lines, it was quite simple (a relief considering Chris and I were doing all of our travel by train!) I came armed with suggestions of places to eat from the Australia foodie magazine, delicious. We tried a few of them during our time in Florence and while I was impressed, I was just as pleased by the random trattorias and breakfast bars that we stumbled upon.

The Duomo in Florence
An unfortunate surprise which we only discovered on our first night in Florence was that the place is teeming with mosquitoes. While they buzzed around me in bed and bit my face, I found myself wishing that I had my electrified, tennis racket shaped, mosquito killer that was so useful when I lived in Laos. All I had to do was press a button and wave it around, and zap! the mosquito died. Instead I turned the lights on and ran around trying to crush them while they rested on the walls. By the time we left 3 days later, the walls almost looked red.
Florence was also crammed full of tourists. However, by having early mornings, we got to experience the city without others, which made a huge difference. Our first morning was spent at the Uffizi Gallery – I noticed I travelled through the Gallery much quicker than Julie or Chris, perhaps because I do not have a sufficient appreciation of art (there are only so many Madonna and Child paintings you can see before they start to look the same). The highlight of our afternoon at Palazzo Pitti was seeing an exhibition of the Medici’s burial clothes that my work colleague Sue’s friend had worked on – I felt only a few degrees of seperation from the action!
At 8am the following morning, advance tickets in hand, we were admitted to the Galleria dell’Academia, the home of Michaelangelo’s David. We somehow managed to get to the 5m statue first and spend a few minutes gazing up at it before the crowds hit – not an experience that many can claim to have. We then spent our afternoon on a tour through the Chianti region of Tuscany – I wanted to see what all the fuss about Tuscany was, even if I couldn’t participate in the wine tasting at the end of the day (the Chianti region has its own particular type of wine, and the requirements in order for it to be certified made my head spin). The castle we visited had an amazing view of the countryside, which was pierced by small sections of vineyard in every direction. It was lovely to get away from the crowds of Rome and Florence and see some of the beauty of rural Italy.

Jules and Chris sample the Chianti wine
The next day we caught the train to Venice. Getting off the train and straight onto a ferry on the Grand Canal, I was immediately struck by the city – it was unlike any place I have ever seen before. There were buildings sitting right at the edge of the water, with small bridges spanning the canals that separated the islands, and boats passing in every direction. We spent the afternoon wandering the city and purposefully getting lost – which was more enjoyable than all of our meticulously planned days before it. We found ourselves in St Marks Square at sunset and caught the lift to the top of the belltower in time to watch the sun go down. It was easy to see the romance in the city.

Jules watches the sunset over Venice
However, 24 hours was an appropriate time to spend there, because by the end of the following day its appeal had worn a bit thin. While we had a delightful morning exploring and shopping on the nearby island of Murano, which is renown for its glass making, St Marks Square was teeming with tourists when we arrived at lunchtime. St Marks Basilica smelt like a sewer and was so unattractive that it barely got 5 minutes of our time, and the nearby Doges Palace (the former Venetian Parliament) seemed ridiculously ostentatious – every second room was a waiting room for the room following it. Who needs that many waiting rooms???? The food in Venice was also a real disappointment after the phemoneal food we had eaten in both Rome and Florence. It wasn’t hard to conclude that the real attraction in Venice was not the ‘sights’, but rather the city itself.
We left Julie that afternoon, as she made her way to France through eastern Italy and we caught the overnight train to Vienna. It was sad to leave her, since she was such an entertaining travel companion, and I think she was nervous about venturing out on her own. However it was only a temporary departure from Italy for us, as we found ourselves back there on our return to Rome 3 weeks later.
On our return, we caught five connecting trains from Interlaken in Switzerland to the Cinque Terre (or Five Villages) on the eastern Italian coast, which took the majority of the day. It was amazing to go from 3 degrees and snow covered Alps to 20 degrees and brilliant sunshine on the Mediterranean shores, within the space of a few hours. The warmth, the beauty of the coastline and the colourful villages nestled in the hillside were a recipe for happiness, and almost immediately we went and stuck our toes in the ocean. Afterwards we watched the sunset from a cliffside bar while Chris had some of his new favourite drink, Limoncello. It was as close to perfect as you can get – and we didn’t have to share it with a million other tourists.

Chris dips his feet in the Mediterranean at the Cinque Terre
While clouds covered up the sunshine for the rest of our time in the Cinque Terre, it didn’t dampen our spirits. In two hours, we walked from our village (Riomaggiore, the last of the five villages) to Cornuglia, two villages along, following a picturesque and easy walk along the coastline. The most interesting section was ‘Lovers Lane’, a 20 minute stretch of track which was covered in padlocks as signs of devotion. We made our way to the larger Monterosso, the first village, on the train, and then caught the ferry back to Riomaggiore to see the villages from the water. It was phenomenal that these villages had survived despite their perilous positions on the side of cliffs. Rain prevented any further outdoor adventures (including swimming, which disappointed Chris), but exploring the remaining villages was fun and we were always able to cheer ourselves up with wonderful food (the area is known for its pesto and olives).
Our final Italian stop was Siena, via Pisa to have a quick look at the Leaning Tower (which was quite impressive in 3D). Our first experience in Siena was weaving through the narrow cobbled streets in a taxi, hoping not to hit anything – cheap thrills! The sunshine was welcome after the rainy Cinque Terre, so we explored the large town square and fortress. The town square (Piazza Il Campo) is home to the horse race, the Palio, a race that dates back 1000 years and which sees each district (or contrade) in Siena race a horse around the square. The many pictures of the race throughout the town looked remarkable.
We spent most of the rainy next day wandering through the Cathedral, Museum, Crypt and Baptistry, and once again I was pleasantly surprised to find Sue’s friends work on display in the museum – this time it was ancient Contrade flags that had been restored. The marble carvings on the floor of the Cathedral were equally impressive. We spent the remainder of the afternoon wandering the labyrinth like streets – somewhat akin to Venice, without the water.
We were lucky for two reasons on our last day in Siena – the sun came out again, and due to the festival of the 700th anniversary of the Siennese constitution several of the Contrade museums opened their doors. These museums are rarely ever open to the public. It was fantastic to look through the artefacts of the Palio, especially the banners received as first prize, some of which dated back more than 200 years. Chris then climbed the 400m high clock tower while I sunned myself in the square (having reached the stage of pregnancy where I no longer wanted to walk far or climb anything too high!) Our train ride back to Rome in the afternoon was tinged with sadness, knowing that our holiday had effectively come to an end.

View from the belltower in Siena
There was one last surprise for us though. As we arrived at the train station to catch our train to the airport the next morning, we were confused as to why the clocks appeared to be an hour slow. We soon noticed this phenomenon everywhere and reasoned that Daylight Savings must have finished the night before. Lucky for us it wasn’t the other way around!
Stay tuned for stories from Germany, Austria, Czech Republic (ok…Prague) and Switzerland.